The members of India's Khatri Community are a prominent South Asian social group that traces its earliest origins to the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent. Along with others in this area, they are descendants of the original Indus Valley Civilisation, which first developed around 3300 BCE, making it one of the oldest civilisations (along with Mesopotamia and Egypt) where complex urbanised life first began.
S Wilkinson. PhysicsScotland
Over time, groups of the Khatri Community migrated outwards from the Punjab region, moving east towards Bengal and south into Gujarat and Rajasthan. In these new regions, they adapted to local economies, with some communities establishing themselves as merchants, bankers, traders, civil administrators, and scribes. Other communities became deeply associated with highly specialised artisan crafts.
The period of British rule in India (ranging from the East India Company era starting in 1757 through the British Raj to 1947) had a huge impact on the Khatri community. Due to their historical adaptability and deep background in administration and trade, they moved through the colonial period with significant success; however, the end of British rule had severe consequences for them.
The Partition of British India in 1947 to create the new state of Pakistan placed the Khatri homelands within this new nation. When British India was divided along religious lines to create a Muslim-majority Pakistan and a Hindu-majority India, the Khatri found themselves on the 'wrong' side of the line, as the vast majority of the Khatri Community was Hindu or Sikh. Due to this, the Khatri Community migrated en masse across the new border into India as refugees.
Despite leaving behind their ancestral lands and most of their wealth and possessions, the high literacy rates, professional skills, and strong trade networks allowed most to successfully rebuild their lives and businesses from scratch in independent India.
The Khatri Community & Bandhani
In the Kutch and Saurashtra regions of Gujarat, the Khatri Community, which today comprises both Hindu and Muslim artisans, is revered as the primary practitioner and historical custodian of the Bandhani tie-dyeing technique.
The term Bandhani derives from the Sanskrit word Banda or Bandh, meaning 'to tie'. Its roots trace back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, making it one of the oldest known tie-dye traditions globally.
Bandhani is incredibly labour-intensive. Artisans use their fingernails (or a small metal ring with a point) to pluck tiny bindings of the cloth, tying them tightly with thread before dyeing. A single intricate piece can feature thousands of these tiny knots. The tied fabric is dyed in stages, starting with the lightest colours and moving to the darkest.
Bandhani garments are deeply woven into social and religious life in India. They are considered highly auspicious and are traditionally worn during life's major milestones, such as births, marriages, and festivals. In traditional Bandhani, colours are not merely aesthetic choices; they serve as a visual language communicating the wearer's social status, life stage, and the specific occasion.
Karambelkar S. Bandhani pagadi tie and dye work on cloth, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India - Link
(Concept Art) S Wilkinson. PhysicsScotland
Bandhari : STEM
The traditional Bandhani process is a resist-dyeing technique. This means that knots in the fabric are used to prevent (resist) dye from accessing parts of the fabric, leaving undyed areas. By soaking the fabric in a dye bath, a range of colours can be added to the fabric, with the depth of colour being dependent on how long the fabric is in the dye bath.
S Wilkinson. PhysicsScotland
STEM Task :
Follow the instructions in the video above to create a variety of natural dyes.
Dye a range of scrap cotton cloth, varying the combination of dyes and the length of soaking to create a range of different colours and shades.
Extension - Through the use of 'loom bands' as ties, attempt to create a pattern on cotton cloth using the Bandhari technique.