Fabric & Fibres 

Clothing 

For humans, clothing serves as a versatile tool that helps us adapt to our environment, protect or express ourselves, and connect with others. 

There is indirect evidence that Humans started wearing clothes over 107,000 years ago as they migrated out from the warm areas of Africa to cooler regions. These early clothes likely consisted of animal skins and natural fibers such as grasses and would serve to insulate the wearing from the weather or provide protection from cuts and scrapes. 

As human society evolved, the uses of these materials changed as Humans developed ways to improve the natural properties of the materials, such as improve strength or versitility. This includes processes such as the spinning of cotton or the weaving of flax to make linen. 

Natural Fibres

Natural fibres come from animals or plants. 

Plant fibres include cotton, linen, jute, sisal and more unusual fibres such as bamboo or coconut. Animal fibres include wool, silk and hair such as mohair (goat) or angora (rabbit).

Natural Fibres : Cotton

Cotton fibers are known for its softness, breathability, and durability. Cotton is highly absorbent, making it comfortable to wear in warm weather. While cotton is generally strong, it can wrinkle easily and may shrink if not cared for properly.

Cotton is derived from the soft, fluffy fibres that grows around the seeds of the Cotton plant. Cotton has been used to make clothing for thousands of years, with the earliest evidence of use dated to approxiamtely 5500 BCE in Pakistan. 

A cotton boll is the rounded, mature fruit of the cotton plant. It contains the cotton fibers and seeds. When the boll matures, it opens up, revealing the fluffy white fibers within. 

Once the cotton bolls are harvested, the fibers are separated from the seeds in a process called ginning. These fibers are then cleaned and aligned, spun into yarn, and woven or knitted into fabric. 

The fabric may undergo various finishing processes like bleaching, dyeing, or printing. Finally, the fabric is cut into patterns and sewn together to create clothing garments. 

The cultivation and production of cotton in the 18th and 19th centuries were inextricably linked to the institution of slavery. The demand for cotton, particularly after the invention of the cotton gin, fueled the expansion of slavery in the US South. 

Enslaved people provided the labor necessary to cultivate, harvest, and process cotton, making it a profitable commodity for plantation owners. The economic success of the cotton industry was directly tied to the exploitation of enslaved labor, contributing to the wealth of US directly and indirectly the rest of the world through the global market for cotton at the expense of human lives. 

Natural Fibres : Silk

Silk fibers are known for their smooth, soft texture, natural luster, and strength. Silk is a highly breathable fabric that can regulate body temperature, keeping you cool in summer and warm in winter. Silk is a highly absorbent fabric that can wick away moisture from the body, keeping you dry and comfortable.

Silk is derived from the cocoons of the Silk Worm. These cocoons are boiled to soften the sericin, a natural glue holding the silk fibers together. The fibers are then unwound and combined to form silk threads. These threads are spun, dyed, and woven or knitted into fabric. 

Silk is an expensive fabric as it takes a huge amount of labour to raise the Silk Worms then to process the cocoons to extract the silk. It takes approximately 5,000 silkworms to produce enough silk to make a single kimono.

As Silk production involves boiling silkworms alive in their cocoons to extract the silk thread, silk production can be considered inhumane and unethical. 

Some companies promote 'ethical' silk production, also known as Ahimsa silk or Tussar silk.

Ahimsa silk prioritizes the well-being of the silkworms. In this method, silkworms are allowed to complete their natural life cycle and emerge from their cocoons as moths before the silk is harvested. This results in a shorter, less continuous silk thread, but ensures no harm comes to the silkworms. 

The disadvantages of Ahimsa silk include higher production costs, lower yields and a more coarse fabric than traditional silk production. 

Synthetic Fibres

Synthetic fibres are created by scientists from artificial sources.

Synthetic fibres can be made by refining crude oil or chemically processing natural materials to make entirely new materials. 

Synthetic Fibres : Nylon

Nylon is a synthetic fibre known for its strength, durability, and resistance to abrasion and chemicals. Nylon is used in a wide range of applications, including clothing, carpets, ropes, and can be used in medical implants. 

Nylon is produced through a process called polymerisation, where smaller molecules called monomers are linked together to form long chains, creating the polymer. 

This process involves reacting chemicals, derived from crude oil, under heat and pressure. The resulting polymer is then melted and extruded through tiny holes in a spinneret, forming continuous filaments that are further processed into fibers. 

Nylon is a popular choice for both recreational and commercial rope and fishing nets due to its strength, durability, and resistance to abrasion. 

Due to these properties, lost or discarded nylon fishing nets can pose a significant threat to marine ecosystems.  They can entangle and harm marine life, including fish, turtles, and seabirds. 

Responsible fishing practices, including proper net maintenance and disposal, are crucial to minimising environmental impact. 

Synthetic Fibres : Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fiber created from crude oil. Known for its durability, wrinkle resistance, and quick-drying properties, it's widely used in clothing and home furnishings.  It is the most commonly used fibre in the world, making up over half of the global fibre market.

Just like Nylon, Polyester is made by reacting chemicals, derived from crude oil, under heat and pressure. The resulting polymer is again then melted and extruded through tiny holes in a spinneret, forming continuous filaments that are further processed into fibres. 

Polyester clothing does have an environmental impact. During washing, polyester clothing sheds tiny plastic fibers called microplastics. These microplastics enter waterways and oceans, harming marine life and potentially entering the human food chain. Polyester also doesn't biodegrade easily, persisting in landfills for centuries. This contributes to the growing problem of plastic waste accumulation. 

However, polyester can be made from waste plastic, potentially reducing the amount that goes to landfill.